Drafting a Hood from Scratch. When the call out hit my inbox for a pattern hack theme on the Curvy Sewing Collective, I instantly knew Id want to mess about with hoodies. Hardly a week goes by I dont sew up a hoodie of some sort this last two weeks I put together three. One a satin lined no wale corduroy jacket the other two a pair of sportswear bamboo french terry beauties. Order Your Books Today The Moulage 24. US The Basic Sleeve 19. US Advanced Sleeve 24. US Trouser Draft 24. US Birth of a Bustier. In sewing and fashion design, a pattern is the template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before being cut out and assembled. For each, I used the same fabric line Natures Fabrics bamboo stretch french terry. I use it for almost all my hoodies because the colors are gorgeous, and the fabrics feel wonderful and wear beautifully. Knowing I wanted to write about hoodies, the question was therefore what to write Ive made more hoodie types than most people you know. Ive made sheer hoodies, velour hoodies, colorblocked hoodies, and hand stenciled hoodies. Ive made unicorn and pegasus and tiger striped alicorn hoodies. Ive made squid, yeti, axolotl and platypus hoodies. Ive made angler fish hoodies with a real glowing lure. Ive made finned hoodies, eared hoodies, double hoodies Its gonna get weird TWO hoods. Shop for cloth doll pattern on Etsy, the place to express your creativity through the buying and selling of handmade and vintage goods. Hello, everyone More drafting today, but not garment deconstruction this time. Instead, were simply going to meander through some of the subtleties in drafting. Century Clothing Renaissance tailoring techniques, manuscript sources, and technical advice. JPG' alt='Pattern Drafting Books' title='Pattern Drafting Books' />And a billion baby hoodies and basic hoodies, at that. I guess what Im saying is, I like to make these suckersBut in thinking about this post, one thing I thought might be helpful is a brief demo on how to create a hood given a t shirt pattern. Then, I thought for fun Id throw in my method for creating a long knotted hood, as well as my method for inserting simple ears in a hood. So lets do our basic draft a hood bit first Keep in mind there are a limitless number of hood shapes you can create, and there are also many different ways to draft. This is my quick and dirty draft, and Ive always been happy with the results. We will have a larger volume hood as a result, without significant center front overlap. So below, I have a tried and true block for a fitted long sleeved shirt, with a 12 seam allowance. To save paper, I have my front and back pieces combined. Note, this is a rather deep neck tee. You can always bring the deep neck up into a crew neckline, if you like. But the whole point of my tutorial is to show you how to draft the hood to the neckline you have. The goal is we have enough volume in your hood it will look good, and wont pull. Below, I have marked the stitching lines on both the front and back, in red and green resp. I have also measured the exact distances of the stitching lines at 4 12 for the back, and 1. Note I have stopped short 12 because that is the stitch line at the shoulder. So if you think about it, 21. That isnt enough information, however, to draft a hood. We also need the vertical drop from the inner shoulder point, to the center front stitching line. Ive placed a pen along this line, to show you the distance I mean 7 34 here Im going to call this my center depth. There is one more measurement you need to take on your body. Holding a flexible tape measure from the neck just below your ear, at top of the shoulder to the center of your head. I will call this the headneck height. In my case, I measured 1. So we have our Front stitching distance 1. Back stitching line 4 12Center depth 7 34Headneck height 1. You may want to print the below diagram out. The process isnt as tricky as it looks, but when describing it, it can sound complicated So first, I make a cross in the middle of my paper. The center of this intersection, is point 0. Point 0 will represent the shoulder notch right where the hood crosses the shoulder seam. Now, its time to add point 1. This point will be placed the back stitching line distance 4 12 from point 0. Next, draw a line parallel to 0 1, the center drop distance away from this line 7 34 in my example. Download Anatomia De Gray Libro Pdf on this page. The intersection of this line to the vertical line, is point 2. Road Less Traveled M Scott Peck Pdf. You now have three lines and three points on your paper upper right diagram. We will now take our front stitching line distance 1. This intersection is point 3 middle left on the diagram. Now, we measure UP line 0 2, from point 0 to our headneck height, plus at least 1. The more distance you measure up here, the more volume to your hood so the more the hood will rest on your shoulders even after you put it up. I added 2, which means my point 4 is 1. Now, we get to draw our hood the bottom set of drawings belowIm going to write about how to do that, below the diagram. So, the hood stitchine lines have to intersect at points 0, 1, 3, and 4. The red line at lower left, represents the shape I drafted in. You can keep the front edge of the hood straight if you like I add a subtle concave curve. If you notice, too, I like to bring down the back center seam of the hood a bit it makes for more of a cowl effect. You can drop this point an inch or so just measure from point 0 to the bottom center back of the hood, to make sure this distance is equal to the back stitching line 4 12. Correct as needed using a french curve or a flexible tape measure. The hood can dip back to the right as far as you like, or essentially extend straight up from point 1 your call. Again, I like to add a generous curve as I have a large head and also like a voluminous hood. Finally add seam allowances lower right and youre good Reminder the leading edge of the hood needs enough allowance for a hem or lining. A few more considerations before you cut eyelets. If you want an eyelet for a drawstring, just consider you want it centered in the folded back front edge allowance, and mark accordingly. After stitching the lined or unlined hood together, and finishing that front edge, pin marking your shoulder notch point 0. Whew These necks two hacks are for fun and for free, as we say. Just goofin. New boot goofin. And easier than the above demo, I might add. First, Im going to demonstrate a knotted hood. Every time I make a knotted hood, my oldest child calls it a sneaky hoodie. So, I like that. Heres a sneaky hoodie. Shown below the awesome Tami Revolution Double Hoodie from New Horizons Designs used here with permission. Here is the basic premise, from our hood the pattern includes seam allowances, below. We are adding a long tail. You will want the straightaway of the tail to be no shorter than 1. Ill talk about that in a moment. The thinner your tail, the more distinct the knot will be. A thicker tail, results in a kind of gathered look. Which is cool, too. As you can see below, I like a curved seam here. I finish it as gorgeously as I can, because I prefer to leave large hoods unlined if possible. Stitch the hood halves together, turn and gently press the tail, and continue as per the pattern. I should add, too I untie my knot when I launder, and only re tie it when the garment is fully dry. I think that keeps the knot looking fresh And now its time for my final entry adding ears to a hood. Please keep in mind that if you have very long or large ears, they will not stand up when the hood is employed unless you use wire or some other structure Ive written a tutorial or two on that. But here, I am using just a couple little cat ears. In general, I place the ears about 3 away from the finished edge of the hood dashed line at upper left, below. As for the distance down from the hood center seam, that too depends on what kind of look youre going for. Bluetooth File Transfer Wizard Windows Xp'>Bluetooth File Transfer Wizard Windows Xp. I am doing cat ears here, so I wanted the ears up a little higher I chose a 5 span from the inner junction of one ear, to the other. Shown here, the Two Pocket Jacket with Draped Hood, from Bootstrap.